Dunbar Home Inspections

06/08/2026

Did you know?

Furnace condensate drain line cannot be hard-piped directly into a sewer or plumbing drain line. Doing so is a major plumbing code violation. Direct connections can allow hazardous sewer gases to circulate through your home's ductwork and risk sewage backing up directly into your HVAC system.

Why a Direct Connection is Dangerous?
Sewage Odors & Bacteria: If your condensate line lacks a physical break, noxious sewer gases and bacteria can travel up the 3/8" or 3/4" tubing and push directly into your living space.
Contamination & Backflow: If there is a blockage in your main sewer line, sewage can push backward through a direct, untrapped connection and flood your furnace.
Acidity Issues: High-efficiency furnaces and AC units produce acidic water. While a direct connection to a standard cast-iron drain pipe will corrode the metal over time, most municipalities simply prohibit it regardless of material to protect the main system.

The Solution: "Air Gaps" and Indirect WasteTo drain condensate safely into your existing plumbing, the line must use an indirect connection (often called an air gap) or empty into an approved fixture:Air Gap: The condensate line must terminate a few inches above a floor drain, utility sink, or standpipe. This physical open space ensures sewage or drain odors cannot enter the condensate tube.Trapped Sinks: If the line runs into a utility sink or clothes washer standpipe, it must empty into an open basin above the sink's flood rim.Condensate Pump to a Trap: If you use a Condensate Pump, it can pump the water to an approved plumbing drain, but it must connect to a trapped fixture (like a laundry box drain) and must still incorporate a proper gap or check valve.

Acid NeutralizersBecause furnace condensate is acidic (typically between a 3.2 and 4.5 pH), many building codes require you to install a condensate neutralizer kit before draining into any plumbing system. This inline filter contains limestone or magnesium oxide pellets that balance the water's pH before it hits your pipes or local wastewater treatment, protecting your home's infrastructure.

Not sure if this is like your furnace drain ? Ask your furnace tech to improve on next service!

04/25/2026

04/25/2026

Spring clearance

1399.99 plus tax

DROLET Savannah II EPA Wood Stove

03/23/2026

The ovens in the ranges can experience a delayed ignition of the oven's bake burner, which can create a potential risk of burns.  As of March 11, 2026, the company has received 3 reports of incidents in Canada, including one injury. In the United States, the company has received 59 reports o...

03/14/2026

Did you know our inspectors are Certified Master inspectors.

Ronald Dunbar CMI
Derek Martinat CMI
Tom Dunbar CPI

A Certified Master Inspector® (CMI) is the top professional designation in the home inspection industry, awarded to experienced, qualified inspectors who meet rigorous standards set by the Master Inspector Certification Board. They must have at least three years of experience, complete 1,000 fee-paid inspections/hours, abide by a strict Code of Ethics, and pass background checks.
Certified Master Inspector®
Certified Master Inspector®
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Key Aspects of a Certified Master Inspector:
High Experience Requirement: CMIs have a proven track record, having completed 1,000 fee-paid inspections and/or hours of education combined.
Rigorous Vetting: They must have been in the business for at least three years, abide by the inspection industry's toughest Code of Ethics, and consent to periodic criminal background checks.
Advanced Expertise: The designation represents the highest level of competence in the industry, focused on detailed, comprehensive property assessments.
Not a Trade Association: The CMI designation is awarded by the independent Master Inspector Certification Board, not a specific trade association, making it a professional, board-certified title.
Maintenance: CMIs must continue to demonstrate excellence to maintain their status!

03/10/2026

03/08/2026

Commander Panel

While not banned, many insurance companies in Ontario may require you to replace older panels (like Commander or Federal Pioneer) before they will issue a policy due to the perceived fire risk.

03/08/2026

Did you know?

In Ontario, the requirement for GFCI protection at a washing machine depends on its proximity to a sink. Under the Ontario Electrical Safety Code (OESC), which is the electrical standard referenced by the Ontario Building Code:
1.5-Metre Rule: All 15A and 20A receptacles located within 1.5 metres (approx. 5 feet) of a laundry sink or washbasin must be protected by a Class A GFCI.

Dedicated Washer Outlet: If the washing machine outlet is located beyond 1.5 metres from a sink, GFCI protection is generally not strictly required by the OESC, though it is often recommended for safety.

Accessible Requirements: If a GFCI is required, it must be readily accessible for testing and resetting. If the outlet is hidden behind the washer and cannot be easily reached, a GFCI circuit breaker in the electrical panel is the standard solution.