Fast Fashion The Dark Sides of Fashion

Fast Fashion The Dark Sides of Fashion It’s in Paris where you can find the talent to raise the level of the collections so that the label can reach an international level, Capron said.

It’s in Paris where you can find the talent to raise the level of the collections so that the label can reach an interna...
04/11/2021

It’s in Paris where you can find the talent to raise the level of the collections so that the label can reach an international level, Capron said.

Fosun Fashion Group has been working to revive the historic French label Lanvin with younger, international consumers in mind, and hired Bruno Sialelli French designer from LVMH-owned Loewe label for the job.

The French luxury executive was recruited in 2013 by Shouzeng Ye and Tao Xiaoma, founders of Icicle, which bought the hi...
04/11/2021

The French luxury executive was recruited in 2013 by Shouzeng Ye and Tao Xiaoma, founders of Icicle, which bought the historic French couture house Carven in 2018 and in July created the ICCF Group.

Icicle, with sales of 334 million euros in 2020, up 12% from 2019, has 270 stores in 100 cities in China. The brand caters to urban professionals with earthy-toned overcoats and suits in high quality materials, often made with natural dyeing techniques.

With backing from a new majority shareholder, the Agnelli family holding company Exor, the label recently set up a desig...
04/11/2021

With backing from a new majority shareholder, the Agnelli family holding company Exor, the label recently set up a design studio in Paris to complement production in Shanghai.

“It’s a very bold move to do a show in Paris Fashion Week,” said Exor managing director Suzanne Heywood, who is also chairman of Shang Xia.

We are being watched closely,” said Isabelle Capron, international vice president at ICCF, the owner of Chinese label Icicle, noting that Chinese companies have so far had limited success in building high-end fashion businesses with an international reach.

While the label is well-known in China, it has yet to achieve the broader commercial success that many in the industry h...
04/11/2021

While the label is well-known in China, it has yet to achieve the broader commercial success that many in the industry had expected.

“Chinese luxury brands are still quite niche,” Kathryn Parker, a luxury sector analyst with Jefferies, said.

Shang Xia showed its commitment to Paris when it held its first fashion show on Monday on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule, sending a lineup of models in polished suits in bright colours along a circular runway.

“The Chinese market is very saturated and it’s just become very, very expensive to grow,” she said, noting that it was e...
04/11/2021

“The Chinese market is very saturated and it’s just become very, very expensive to grow,” she said, noting that it was easier to find backing from investors when taking a global view.

But in fashion’s upper echelons, Chinese companies, including ones that have purchased established European labels, have so far found it hard to take off in Western markets.

Shang Xia, founded a decade ago by Jiang Qiong Er and French luxury group Hermes International, who both remain shareholders, started out as a lifestyle brand focused on showcasing Chinese craftsmanship and then expanded into ready-to-wear fashion.

Chinese-owned brands are looking to expand abroad, sparking a trend of new labels being established in the country with ...
04/11/2021

Chinese-owned brands are looking to expand abroad, sparking a trend of new labels being established in the country with the goal of international growth, said Yishu Wang, co-founder of Half a World, a firm that offers marketing advice to brands seeking to expand overseas.

In the Slow Fashion section of the exhibition we present pioneers of fair and sustainable fashion. To make visits to the...
04/11/2021

In the Slow Fashion section of the exhibition we present pioneers of fair and sustainable fashion. To make visits to the exhibition as contact-free as possible in the context of the coronavirus pandemic, the listening stations in the exhibition have currently been switched off.

Instead you can use your own devices to listen to interview clips from the exhibition, available here. They provide insight into the particular motivations for standing up for fair fashion.

Public interest in fair fashion is increasing as a result of the public discourse about the consequences of fast fashion...
04/11/2021

Public interest in fair fashion is increasing as a result of the public discourse about the consequences of fast fashion for people and the environment.

The section of the exhibition about slow fashion provides information about the Berlin fair fashion scene. Neonyt, the world’s largest fair fashion fair, takes place in Berlin every year. Designers and creative minds set trends and develop innovative approaches and materials while seeking to slow down the fashion cycle.

The MEK presents Berlin pioneers of fair and sustainable fashion who explain what they consider to be fair and sustainable – from environmentally friendly upcycling and fair production conditions to garments made out of certified fabrics and clothing exchange parties.

The biggest “fashion sins” are committed even before garments reach the stores. The production of a single cotton T-shir...
04/11/2021

The biggest “fashion sins” are committed even before garments reach the stores. The production of a single cotton T-shirt consumes 2700 litres of water, which regularly ends up spreading toxic pollutants into the rivers after being used in chemical dying processes.

People living in countries such as Bangladesh suffer from persistent environmental pollution and contaminated ground water. In those countries women mostly earn their living as seamstresses in the clothing industry. Increasing numbers of consumers now classify the women’s working conditions and wages as unfair. How can a T-shirt cost less than a cappuccino? The section of the exhibition examining fast fashion explains how the global fast fashion industry functions and how producers and consumers are interconnected.

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