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Once in Ennedi, Bonomo and I left the car and walked for six days – using camels to carry our bags and accompanied by tw...
16/05/2023

Once in Ennedi, Bonomo and I left the car and walked for six days – using camels to carry our bags and accompanied by two nomadic herders named Ousmane Adoum and Kalli Youssouf. On foot I could appreciate the scale of the land and its end-of-the-Earth feeling. We made camp each night just before sunset, lighting a small fire which the herders held their hands over for warmth, before drinking tiny glasses of sweet tea. On the first night, we camped inside a natural amphitheatre of rock, which felt almost spiritual. There was utter silence and the stars glittered overhead.

Not long ago, red-necked ostriches, addax and scimitar-horned oryx roamed this land in abundance, before being hunted to...
16/05/2023

Not long ago, red-necked ostriches, addax and scimitar-horned oryx roamed this land in abundance, before being hunted to extinction. However, African Parks is now reintroducing these animals back into the wild. Meanwhile Ennedi may seem devoid of life – much of its wildlife is nocturnal – yet this is not the case. I stopped to pick up porcupine quills, saw rock hyrax sunbathing and huge Arabian bustards lifted off into flight. I watched beetles tiptoe across the hot sand and dorcas gazelles bounced along like gold pogo sticks. A fennec fox held my gaze, its enormous ears pricked up, before fleeing fast.

16/05/2023

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In search of this new wave of folksters, I headed to the market town of Stroud to catch Boss Morris preparing to rehears...
14/05/2023

In search of this new wave of folksters, I headed to the market town of Stroud to catch Boss Morris preparing to rehearse in a draughty village hall. Wearing jangling bells at their legs and crowns of golden corn, Merry and her dance side were keen to point out that although it's still perceived as a male-dominated pastime, women have always Morris danced, even if only on the fringes of the limelight.

My sense of anticipation only grew as we continued along the passageway that was carved into the chalk and limestone hil...
12/05/2023

My sense of anticipation only grew as we continued along the passageway that was carved into the chalk and limestone hillside. What was only a few minutes' walk felt much longer as we tracked the curving, ribbed walls that were designed to slow down the pressure wave of a nuclear blast.

It's not a proper asada without beer, and Lopez is a very big proponent of the michelada (she sells a premade mix in ret...
08/05/2023

It's not a proper asada without beer, and Lopez is a very big proponent of the michelada (she sells a premade mix in retail stores), a drink made with cold beer, lime juice, hot sauce, Worcestershire and spices. It's sometimes made with tomato juice as well. "It is one of the most delicious drinks that Mexico ever gave the world, but it's never a Bloody Mary'' Lopez emphasised. "It's a drink in its own right. The goal is to uplift the beer and make it spicy, tangy and salty, so you want to have three, four, five beers."

Maya Robinson was among the first to complete the programme and remembers a pivotal moment that helped decide her career...
05/05/2023

Maya Robinson was among the first to complete the programme and remembers a pivotal moment that helped decide her career path. "We went to the Rood and Riddle Equine Hospital and watched surgery on a horse," she said. "My eyes were glued the entire time, and it made me realise that caring for animals and helping them get back to the healthiest state they can be is what I want to do as a career."

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