Bolt Home Services

Bolt Home Services Home Services company with over 20 yrs experience

Wow look at the all new MUNN PARK.
05/19/2024

Wow look at the all new MUNN PARK.

05/17/2024

https://www.facebook.com/VHAVetsFL?mibextid=LQQJ4d

Yep this is how we were treated

Wish i could go lower stars as this places doesn't deserve the one star. Took our greyhound into the ER as she was limping and painting as she was in pain. Unfortunately over the last six weeks we had already lost two other greyhounds due to Osteosarcoma. They came out with an estimate of $1747.60 of that $763 was x-rays $211 in sedation and $463 in blood work. We had elected to start with Xrays as if that showed Cancer there was. no reason to do bloodwork. My Husband went out to tell the receptionist of our decisions and within 5 mins we had our dog back pain meds and a referral to a low cost vet. WHAT THE HELL all we said we wanted to start with Xrays and proceed from there. Not basically our poor and we're not going to lose money on you. I'm am profoundly sadden this clinic is nothing about pets and all about the money. Our dog was not treated we have no idea if her leg is broken, if there is cancer we were told to leave as we are poor. We will spend whatever on our dogs however we also take the practical approach and rule out issues then proceed just as our reg vet does. So at this point our dog is home suffering because of this vet and waiting for a "low cost vet" to open on Monday. Which by the way we use Banfield and they are anything but low cost however they take care of our pets and don't treat us at poor individuals. SHAME ONE YOU Vha you should be about the pets and not assume you clients have no money when they ask for certain things to be done as we know our pets better than you.UPDATE 1 still no call from them and it’s been a week update 2 I have called to speak to Hope who responded to my husband’s review saying she tried to call us (not true) still waiting, I will continue to update this horrid company UPDATE 3 spoke to hope who Has not even bothered to review the video, only after I requested her to review it the entire call I was be talked down to and insulted.i asked for practice manager of course she was not available on office or cell so I asked for the owner. She stated he was with patients and could not come to phone. I again said can you at least ask him I was placed on hold for additional 20 minutes and then sent to voicemail that stated ext1004 is on the phone leave a message

All your pet’s needs, all in ONE campus—because they deserve nothing but the BEST. From top-quality medicine to expert, compassionate care, we’re here every step of the way. 🐾 General Practice | Specialty Referral | 24/7 Critical & Emergency Care.

04/09/2024

Now hiring

Hi, I'd really appreciate it if you would share or donate to this GoFundMe,
02/15/2024

Hi, I'd really appreciate it if you would share or donate to this GoFundMe,

Hello, I'm Justin Nunley, a digital creator and social media influencer. Today, … Justin Danger Nunley needs your support for We Did Some, Now Let’s Do More!

06/19/2022

Hello

12/05/2021

This is stil mine

04/14/2018

Storm season is fast approaching!!!!

There are two basic types of electric surge protection: point of use and whole house. Point of use surge protectors are designed to protect sensitive electronic equipment and major appliances in the home at their electric source. Point of use suppressors are usually devices that plug into the wall outlet and can handle surges up to 6,000 volts.

A whole-house surge protector is designed to protect your home again transient surges that enter through the home's electric supply, but does not protect from surges created internally in the home when motors turn on and off. Whole home protectors are devices that are installed at the meter or electrical panel. These devices require the installation by a licensed electrical contractor.

In both cases, the surge protector attempts to regulate the voltage supplied to an electric device by either blocking or by shorting to ground voltages above a safe threshold.

THE NEED FOR SURGE PROTECTION
There are a number of reasons why power quality has become such an important issue. Today's computer chips are more sensitive to even slight surges, and most homes and offices are using more equipment than ever before. Each time a device is turned on, transient voltages may be generated. Additionally, more microprocessor technology is being used than ever before, in personal computers, TVs, stereos, gaming systems, DVRs, refrigerators, washers, dryers, microwave ovens, dishwashers and just about any electrical device manufactured today.

Internal surges occur when devices with motors (like refrigerators and hair dryers) shut off. The energy these devices were consuming is suddenly redirected elsewhere in the form of excess voltage. Surges can also occur when the power company switches power from one geographic area of the grid to another to meet system demand. And, thunderstorms and lightening are the most dramatic and destructive causes of power line problems and electric surges.

03/21/2018

Two of the most important electronics in your home are also among the simplest. The smoke detectors that provide critical fire warnings and the carbon monoxide detectors that protect you from an invisible threat are extremely basic, and that’s part of what makes them so reliable, compact and inexpensive.

Safety Is Everything

It goes without saying that these are essential safety devices. Early warning against house fires can give you and your family time to escape to safety or extinguish small fires before they can spread. And when it comes to carbon monoxide, detectors are even more crucial -- carbon monoxide is odorless, tasteless and colorless, and can leak into your home from hidden sources such as undetected cracks in your furnace’s heat exchanger.

Because they’re so important, many building and safety codes require that these detectors be installed in occupied structures and replaced upon expiration. If you’re unsure whether your home is up to code, call an electrician or do your own research into your local laws. In many jurisdictions, residential homes are required to have at least one working smoke detector on each floor of the home, plus one more outside each bedroom. Carbon monoxide detector regulations are more varied, but are often required in homes with attached garages, fireplaces or natural gas appliances.

Upkeep is important as well -- you should test all your detectors and replace the backup batteries twice per year. This is a great time to check the sticker on the back and confirm the expiration date so that you can plan ahead for replacement.

Where There’s Smoke, There’s Fire

There are two common types of smoke detectors, and each has a particular advantage over the other.

One type is the photoelectric detector, which uses a beam of light to detect the presence of smoke in the air. This light is projected through a small chamber, and the “eye” that can see the light is pointed toward the side of the beam. When smoke particles float into the beam, the light reflects off of them and toward the eye, which then sends an electronic signal to sound the alarm.

The other common type is the ionization detector, which uses a tiny amount of radioactive material to ionize the air inside an electrified detection chamber. As smoke enters the chamber, the particles interrupt the ionized electronic charge, creating a drop in voltage. That change sends a signal to activate the alarm.

Photoelectric detectors are best at detecting smoldering fires that produce lots of smoke, and ionization detectors have the upper hand with small, flaring fires that produce less smoke. Some of the most sophisticated models use both technologies. If you want to cover all your bases, choose these combo detectors or use a combination of both types throughout your home.

See the Unseeable

Carbon monoxide detectors are available in three types: biomimetic, metal oxide semiconductor and electrochemical.

Biomimetic detectors feature a small chamber filled with a gel that mimics carbon monoxide’s effects on blood. When the gel contacts carbon monoxide particles, it changes color, and that color change is detected by an electronic sensor that triggers the alarm.

With a metal oxide semiconductor detector, a small silica chip is what interacts with carbon monoxide in the atmosphere. This interaction causes a drop in the current flowing through the chip, similarly to the way ionization smoke detectors work. When the voltage drops, the alarm sounds.

The most sensitive carbon monoxide detectors use electrochemical sensors that consist of electrodes submerged in chemical baths. These are less commonly used for household safety but have a variety of industrial applications.

Do you need new smoke or carbon monoxide detectors call us.8307306674

04/08/2017

Smoke detectors save lives. Many people may be lulled into a false sense of security thinking they have smoke detectors in their home. Smoke detectors that are not installed or maintained properly are not safe. Here are a few tips on what you need to know about buying, installing, and maintaining your smoke detectors:

What should I buy?

The National Burn Institute recommends only buying smoke alarms tested by Underwriters Laboratories (UL). You will also want to make sure the smoke detector has a battery backup. Smoke detectors that don’t work in a power outage are no good. Consider buying a combination smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector, they may be more expensive, but well worth the money.

There are two main types of smoke alarms, which are categorized by the type of smoke detection sensor used in the alarm. They are ionization and photoelectric.

Ionization smoke detectors

Ionization detectors respond quickly to flaming fires with smaller combustion particles. They contain a chamber with two plates that generate a small, continuous electric current. When smoke enters the ionization chamber, the smoke particles disrupt the current flow, which triggers the alarm.

Photoelectric smoke detectors

Photoelectric detectors respond more quickly to smoldering fires. They use a light beam and light receptor. When smoke is present between the light and receptor, the photocell sensor triggers the alarm.

Combination smoke detectors

The best smoke alarms can sense both types of fires (flaming and smoldering). For the highest degree of safety and preparedness, there are combination smoke alarms also that combine ionization and photoelectric detectors into one unit, called dual sensor smoke alarms.

Check with your local fire department to see what kind of detector they recommend.

Installation and Maintenance

Smoke detectors should be installed on each floor, outside of every bedroom and sleeping area and near any air vents. Detectors should also be installed high on walls or on ceilings because smoke rises. Avoid installing detectors near windows, doors or where there are openings where smoke can escape.

Check with your local fire department for specific regulations on the placement of detectors.

Smoke detectors have a lifespan of about seven to 10 years, and it’s important to replace old detectors according to the model’s recommendations. Test your alarm’s batteries monthly and remember to replace all batteries at least once a year. Clean and vacuum the grill of your detector to get rid of dust and debris. Other maintenance includes a monthly testing of the alarm and cleaning with a vacuum hose about once every month.

04/07/2017

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I CLEAN MY FIREPLACE?

Is there a bomb in your house? Of course not, right? Well, let's ask this then, do you have a chimney that hasn't been cleaned in a while? Then you may very well HAVE a bomb in your house! Read on to find out why.

Is there a bomb in your house?

Well, guess how the Great Fire of London started in 1666?

Guess how the Great Chicago Fire started blazing in 1871?

Danger Lurking
You may think that a fire in a fireplace goes up, up, up but instead it clings, clings, clings to your chimney and builds up residue on the flue, the chimney’s interior shaft designed to vent smoke and fumes to the exterior of the building. Such residue, known as creosote, a thick, oily brown and flammable tar that coats the flue when the fireplace is used, is responsible for the most intense and destructive fires that occur in homes. Over time, a chimney flue can become a powder keg, literally awaiting the next fire as a catastrophic detonator.

More than one-third of Americans use fireplaces, wood stoves and other fuel-fired appliances as primary heat sources in their homes. But many people are unaware of fire risks when heating with wood and solid fuels. According to the US Fire Administration (USFA), an entity of the Department of Homeland Security’s Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), heating fires account for 36% of residential home fires in rural areas every year. Such fires often are due to creosote buildup in chimneys and stovepipes. The USFA recommends that all home heating systems require regular maintenance to function safely and efficiently.

How Often Should A Chimney Be Cleaned?
We know what you’re thinking – it all depends on how much you use the chimney. Right? Wrong! “Chimneys, fireplaces, and vents shall be inspected at least once a year for soundness, freedom from deposits, and correct clearances. Cleaning, maintenance, and repairs shall be done if necessary," according to the National Fire Protection Association Standard 211. The standard accounts for the fact that even if you don't use your chimney very much, animals may build nests in the flue or there may be deterioration that could make the chimney unsafe to use.

The Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends that open masonry fireplaces should be cleaned at levels of 1/4" soot buildup, and sooner if there is any glaze visible in the system. Factory-built fireplaces should be cleaned when any “appreciable buildup” occurs – this is considered to be enough fuel buildup to cause a chimney fire capable of damaging the chimney or spreading to the home. If your chimney also needs cleaning, you will probably spend between $100 and $300, but keep in mind that the cost of major chimney repairs, resulting from neglect, can cost thousands of dollars or more.

When I Build a Fire in My Fireplace Upstairs, Why Is there Smoke in the Fireplace Downstairs?

This phenomenon, better known as “backdrafting,” is a symptom of overall pressure problems in the house that can cause smoke to be drawn down through the chimney and into the living space as opposed to being expelled to the exterior when the fireplace is in use.

This issue has become quite a common problem in modern, air-tight houses where weather-proofing has sealed up the usual air infiltration routes. The fireplace in use exhausts household air until a negative pressure situation exists. If the house is fairly tight, the simplest route for makeup air to enter the structure is often the unused fireplace chimney. As air is drawn down this unused flue, it picks up smoke that is exiting nearby from the fireplace in use and delivers the smoke to the living area.

The best solution is to provide makeup air to the house so the negative pressure problem no longer exists, thus eliminating not only the smoke problem, but also the potential for carbon monoxide to be drawn back down the furnace chimney. A secondary solution is to install a top mount damper on the fireplace that is used the least.

Should I Have My Gas Chimney Checked?
By this point, we hope you don’t need to venture a wild guess to figure this out – of course you should check a gas chimney! Although gas is generally a clean burning fuel, the chimney can become nonfunctional from bird nests or other debris blocking the flue. Modern furnaces are often vented into chimney flues and can also cause many problems with the average flues intended to vent the older generation of furnaces.

Is Unseasoned Wood Safer?
This also may seem counterintuitive but the answer is “no.” Many people think that unseasoned wood takes longer to dry and produces a solid, crackling fire. However, the extra smoke and lower temperatures associated with unseasoned wood also means greater and faster creosote build-up.

Keep the Fire Glowing and Keep Safe, All at the Same Time
Chimneys are like most other parts of the house – practice common sense and chances are, the chimney will last a lifetime.

Never leave a fire unattended and keep a close eye (or two) on children and pets.

When finished enjoying the fire, make sure it is fully extinguished before leaving the room.

Install smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors around the house.

For homeowners who have the ability to get on the roof and look down the chimney flue, be very careful – look for signs of damage, cracks in tile liners, rust on metal liners, or cracked masonry/missing mortar.

There’s no substitute for an inspection from a certified chimney professional; chimney specialists can deploy special microcameras that examine all parts of the chimney flue.

04/05/2017

I constantly see the rules about dryer duct safety and dryer transition ducts being brought into question, mostly on home inspector forums. If it’s tough for home inspectors to keep this stuff straight, it’s gotta be really tough for average homeowners. Products and rules are always changing.

Dryer duct vs. transition duct
Before I dig into the rules, I need to define the difference between a dryer duct and a dryer transition duct. A dryer duct runs through the house to exhaust the air from the dryer to the exterior. A dryer transition duct is a flexible section of duct material that allows the dryer to connect to the duct. The only place that a transition duct should ever be found is between the dryer and the duct.

Rules for dryer ducts
Dryer exhaust ducts must vent to the exterior. There are UL listed devices that will allow you to exhaust your dryer to the inside of your house, but that doesn’t mean you should. All of that moisture coming back into the home is bad news.

Exhaust ducts must have a smooth interior finish and must be made out of metal that is a minimum of 0.016-inch thick. This is approximately 27 gauge steel, but you’ll only find 26 gauge steel. The duct size must be 4 inches in diameter. No more, no less. When the duct is oversized, the velocity is decreased and the potential for lint accumulation is increased.

The maximum length of a dryer duct should be determined by the clothes dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. The code specifies a maximum of 35 feet and gives reductions for various elbow fittings, but the code is also extremely conservative. I’ve never seen a clothes dryer manufacturer give instructions that were nearly as restrictive as those given by the code, and the code allows the manufacturer’s requirements to be followed. I just did a quick search of manufacturer’s requirements from Maytag, LG, Kenmore, and Samsung. They allowed lengths of 64, 65, 64, and 80 feet, respectively.

The length of a dryer duct is measured from “the connection to the transition duct from the dryer to the outlet terminal“. In other words, you don’t count the transition duct when determining the duct length.

Each terminal requires a backdraft damper and no screens are allowed at the terminal because they get clogged. The worst is when screens are installed at roof terminals because nobody ever goes up there. The video clip below was from a one-year warranty inspection that I did on a home that was less than one year old. Yes, new houses need home inspections too.

Screws and other fasteners that could obstruct airflow are not allowed on dryer ducts. The best way to connect dryer duct sections is to use metal tape.

Rules for dryer transition ducts
A transition duct is a short length of flexible material that is allowed to connect the clothes dryer to the duct. Nothing else. The requirements for dryer transition ducts are pretty short and sweet.

Transition ducts must be a single length. This means no connecting sections together.
Transition ducts cannot be concealed within construction. That means no passing through walls, floors, hidden spaces, etc.
Transition ducts must be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A, and they cannot be longer than 8 feet.
This last one seems to be a moot point because dryer transition ducts can’t be UL 2158A listed if they’re more than 8 feet long (at least I’m pretty sure about that, but I don’t own those standards to verify). But still, there it is. I stopped by a few big-box retailers to check out their offerings, and the labeling for the products agreed with all of this, but the labels weren’t completely clear.

Interestingly enough, several dryer manufacturers and a whole lot of home inspectors don’t like the flexible ‘foil’ type dryer transition ducts. Personally, I have no problem with them. If they’re kept short like they should be, they don’t cause problems.

I have several reasons to dislike the semi-rigid aluminum ducts that everyone else seems to love, however. To start with, there are two different flavors of these ducts; one is listed and the other isn’t. The listed ones are about twice the price, and the two are nearly indistinguishable. If not for the label, who could tell the difference .Not only that, but foil ducts will return to their original shape after being bent. Not so with the semi-rigid aluminum

White plastic duct
The best clothes dryer transition duct money can buy
There’s a UL 2158A listed clothes dryer transition duct out there that outperforms everything else that I’ve seen so far. It’s so superior that it should really have its own category, like “Super-Duper Transition Duct”, but it simply falls into the same category as everything else. It’s called DryerFlex, and can be purchased at Home Depot, but not with the rest of the dryer duct material. You have to head over to the appliance accessories section of the store.

You’ll find it hidden in that department with a GE label on the box, but this is the DryerFlex product. It retails for about $25, and it’s well worth the price. It can also be purchased directly from Home Depot

Address

3616 Harden Boulevard #175
Lakeland, FL
33803

Opening Hours

Monday 7am - 7pm
Tuesday 7am - 7pm
Wednesday 7am - 7pm
Thursday 7am - 7pm
Friday 7am - 7pm
Saturday 7am - 7pm
Sunday 7am - 7pm

Telephone

+18307306674

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