02/21/2018
Landscaping Tip - Citrus Peel!
KEEPING IT GREEN
by
Brent Jeansonne
What creates a better curb-appeal than a beautiful landscape and lawn?
According to the Florida Nursery Growers and Landscape Association, landscaping can increase resale value up to 14% and speed a sale by as much as six weeks.
A well-manicured lawn, fresh mulch, and pruned shrubs boost the curb appeal of any home.
Replace overgrown bushes with leafy plants and colorful annuals. Surround bushes and trees with dark or reddish-brown bark mulch, which gives a rich feel to the yard. Put a crisp edge on garden beds, pull w**ds and invasive vines, and plant a few geraniums in pots.
Green up your grass with lawn food and water. Cover bare spots with seeds and sod, get rid of crab grass, and mow regularly. If you’re selling anytime soon, any work you do now will reap benefits in your home’s selling price.
ST. AUGUSTINE: In Florida, we have a diverse selection of grasses to choose from to fit our need. Because of its wide adaptation to multiple soil types, St. Augustine is the most popular popular turf grass variety and is the most widely adaptable and most commonly used grass grown in the state of Florida.
CENTIPEDE: Another popular grass in Florida is Centipede. Adapted to the Central and Northern Florida climates and soil types, Centipede is the most common home lawn grass in the Florida Panhandle.
OTHER GRASSES: Other grasses commonly grown in Florida are Bahiagrass, Bermudagrass, Seashore Pasalum and Zoysiagrass.
Bahiagrass is a low maintenance, drought tolerant grass that is widely used and a popular fine textured grass that is widely used and popular is Bermudagrass.
Seashore Paspalum is another durable, salt tolerant and chinch-bug resistant grass and finally the grass that is growing in popularity, the lush and beautiful Zoysiagrass.
TRANSITIONS:
FALL: As summer ends and fall approaches we notice a transition on the growth cycle of lawns. The growth rate slows down and the color of the grass seems to have a dull tint. This is a normal occurrence and you should not be alarmed. At this time, allow the lawn to rest from the enduring summer stress. Do not do anything that would disrupt or damage the turf such as aerification and top dressing and dethatching. Although the growth has slowed down considerably, it is still growing. An occasional mowing is good and will shape-up the lawn and maintains the proper height. When mowing, make sure the blades are in good condition and sharp. This will leave a crisp, clean appearance.
FERTILIZER
By December, in Florida, the St. Augustine grass is in the twilight stage of dormancy. Young, tender, new growth on grasses in the winter season is detrimental and therefore, the dormancy period is needed for the grass to survive. New growth of grass is initiated by the season and/or a response to fertilizer, so late summer and fall or winter is not a good time to fertilize with products high in nitrogen. The late season application of fertilizer, Nitrogen in particular, will promote the grass to alter the normal stage of dormancy and promote grown. In the winter months, this could be detrimental for a lawn. In addition, the lush growth prompted by the addition of fertilizer will stimulate and encourage diseases also. For instance, high rates of nitrogen in the late summer will possible result in a disease called Brown Patch Disease. In the fall, fertilizer with a high potassium (K) product may be used. On a bag of fertilizer, there are three numbers that represent the 3 major nutrients needed, nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K). There are many different formulations such as 8-8-8, 13-13-13 and 15-5-10 to name a few. These are usually fast release fertilizers although there are some slow release fertilizers available but at a premium price. By using the fertilizer 15-5-10 the number 15 represents (N), 5 represents (P) and 10 represents (K). Fertilizers with high potassium (K) are commonly called winterizes. Prior to fertilizing your lawn, the Extension Service recommends that you get a soil sample from your lawn and get it tested before you buy any fertilizer. Some nutrients you will pay for are expensive and may be those you don’t need. So, if you wish to fertilize your lawn, in the fall, a soil test is recommended prior to any fertilizer application. Allow enough time to take the soil sample and have it tested and receive the results before you apply fertilizer. This should be no more than a week or two.
WEEDS
One of the common complaints I hear about lawns in the fall is about w**ds. The good news is that most w**ds can be controlled and won’t damage your lawn. When the winter is over and summer starts the w**ds disappear. To reduce the spraying of chemicals, the w**ds can be controlled, to a limited degree, by mowing on a frequent basis or at minimum prior to seed formation. For lawns that have a history of having a w**d problem including w**ds such as dollar w**d, dandelion, oxalis and clover, now is the time to start the control effort.
To get a jump on w**d control, you must apply the proper herbicides at the proper rates to control the proper w**d at the right time. Always read the label before buying the product and read it once more prior to using it. Two types of herbicides are used to control w**ds: 1) Pre-emergent and 2) Post-emergent. Pre-emergent inhibits or kills the w**d seed before germinating or emerging. Post-emergent herbicides kill the w**d after it emerges.
There may be other problems associated with w**d infestation. For instance high w**d populations and poor desired lawn grass populations may be a sign of a pH issue, either too high or too low. A sign of high clover population may be low fertility.
Pre-emergent Herbicide - Annual cool-season w**ds can be controlled if you apply a pre-emergent herbicide to kill the seeds before or at the time of their germination. The residual of a pre-emergent herbicide may last up to several months. A special precaution should be noted if you over-seed you lawn with ryegrass and that is do not use the pre-emergent herbicides if you use any seed winter grass such as ryegrass.
Post-emergent Herbicide - As October approaches, perennial broadleaf w**ds start to appear. The use of selective post-emergent herbicides such as Trimec, Wipeout or W**d-B-Gone may be used to control these broadleaf w**ds. As an on-going precaution, another application can be done in February.
Always follow the label on any chemical use.
If the chemical can be used on your lawn type (i.e. St. Augustine, Bahia, etc.)
Is it labeled for control of the specific w**d you need to eradicate (i.e. Dollar w**d)
Follow the recommendation of application (i.e. timing of application, rate)
INSECTS and other PEST
INSECTS
There are many nsects that affect the beauty of our lawns, in the fall one pest that you may encounter is the sod webworm and fall army worm.
The noticeable tan color in a healthy lawn will most likely indicate an area of infestation where they are feeding. A sure sign of infestation is by observing the blades of grass in the infected area. If the base of the blade looks like it has been chewed off, this is a positive sign of infestation. Fortunately, the runners or stolon are generally still alive and the grass will recover. An easy way to control these caterpillars pest is with Bacillus thuringiensis or locally known as “Bt”.
OTHER PEST
Whenever high rates of Nitrogen (N) are applied to lawns in the spring and fall and there are prolonged times of cool, moist weather, disease problems seem to creep into the lawn.
One such disease that is prevalent in all warm-season turf grasses and especially St. Augustine and Zoysiagrass is Brown Patch disease. The lawn disease is caused by a fungus with the Genus Rhizoctonia. Three species of Rhizoctonia are R. solani , R. zeae and R. oryzae. From November through May, when temperatures are below 80°F, infected lawns may have a noticeable circular pattern of dead grass caused by these pathogens. Usually, the lawn disease will start off small and the infected area will rapidly increase in diameter. Through observation, the grass in the center of the infected area will appear tan and along the outer infected circles edges will appear to have an orange tint. Although the grass blades are killed, the roots and stolon are very week and will usually survive. With time the lawn will regain its appearance. In the fall, if the grass is weak the turf may be susceptible to cold damage. Do not fertilize at this time for the addition of fertilizer will make the condition worse and more susceptle to winter freeze. To control the lawn disease, control measures should be done immediately after detection.
The cultural practices to avoid Brown Patch disease is by avoiding the application of excess nitrogen during potential disease development periods. So, limit readily available or fast releases forms of nitrogen. Do not use fertilizers are such as soluble liquids or quick-release nitrogen sources, just prior to or during these cool and moist times. Instead, use slow-release nitrogen sources. Apply a balanced fertilizer containing equivalent amounts of potassium and nitrogen, preferably a slow-release potassium form. The next important practice is watering. If you do need to water, irrigate only in the early morning hours (between 2:00 and 8:00 a.m.) when dew is already present. Movement of the disease can be through mechanical means. Mowers can spread this disease, so when you mow, mow the diseased areas last, and wash turf clippings off the mower before proceeding to the next site.
SPRING INTO ACTION FOR A HEALTHY LAWN
Out of sight – out of mind! Although it’s there every time we drive up to our homes, we usually don’t notice the lawn until tragedy occurs. All of a sudden there are issues with fertilizer needs or w**d, disease or insect infestation. It usually isn’t us Spring approaches that many people start thinking about their lawn again. Being more vigilant with the needs and maintenance of the lawns and landscape will create a more pleasant environment for our home and community.
During the Winter, the dormant period gave us a bit of a rest period from lawn care, but it's time to get back out there before lawn issues begin to arise.
For our lawns, these are four tasks that can help you get ready for your lawn's active growing season.
1. Check Your Lawn Mower
If you mow your own lawn, now’s the time for lawn mower maintenance. Do you need to change the spark plugs, air filters, or oil? Do the moving parts of your machine need lubricating? Can you raise your mower deck easily? Remember, you never want to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at any time.
At the very least, consider sharpening your mower's blades. Dull blades tear leaf tips, leaving your turf more susceptible to insect or disease invasion. Plus, torn leaf blades make the grass less drought tolerant and leave you with a less visually appealing lawn, so take the time now to make sure your equipment is working well.
If you heir out for lawn maintenance, make sure you have a licensed lawn maintenance company and make sure his equipment is clean. W**d, diseases and insects can be transferred from one yard to another by means of dirty equipment.
2. Make an Irrigation Plan ... factors you need to consider!
Early spring is a great time to calibrate your sprinkler system. A calibration test will allow you to figure out how long you need to run the sprinkler system in order to apply the correct amount of water to your lawn.
Today's high tech irrigation systems demand even more attention so you can receive all their enhanced benefits. Systems must be programmed to fit the location’s needs and those of the current season. Adequate soil moisture is essential for a thriving landscape. It can mean preventing the loss of newly planted grass or increased diseases.
TIME TO WATER: Irrigation should be set to run in the early hours of the day. Morning water pressure is usually better, and foliage will have time to dry before the evening dew or afternoon showers set in. This dry evening segment will reduce the infectious period of diseases and help reduce that problem.
Check head output and uniformity with water collectors like tuna fish cans. Place several collectors around, and check coverage and inches-per-hour output.
One approach to irrigation management is to set the timer for what you guess the zone may need; then watch the results. If your needs are just to protect from general plant loss, an on-call approach or weekly irrigation can do the job.
For best water management, the irrigation factors should be incorporated into your program. They are soil type, current drought conditions, sunlight, types of plants, slope and wind.
SOIL TYPES: Soil types have a lot to do with irrigation cycles. Clayey soils require several short, back-to-back cycles because those soils need more water at any one time, but water can only infiltrate slowly. When well-watered, clay lawns have the capacity to supply moisture longer. Sandy lawns take in water easily but have a lower capacity to hold much water. They need more frequent and shorter-cycle applications. Head output should complement the soil's infiltration rate and be a factor in the original design, but you can still best manage whatever equipment you have.
PLANT TYPE: The plant materials in the landscape also affect irrigation. Some materials have deep roots and drought resistance. These materials need not be watered as often as shallow-rooted species and succulents. It would be best to plant similar materials together and allow for more appropriate irrigation in zones instead of all zones getting the same dose.
When in droughty periods during the hot season, water more frequently. Instead of once or twice a week, you may need a third watering. Poorly designed systems will suffer more in drought and will definitely need more irrigation time to make up for their lack of effectiveness.
If you have slopes, it is important to zone the higher areas differently from those that are lower. High spots will need more frequent watering and low spots or downslope will collect water from upslope and need less irrigation to avoid disease and root loss. You may adjust run times or the frequency and timing of their cycles to get the appropriate dose for the site.
LIGHT vs SHADE AREAS: Shady areas usually do not need as much water, but that depends on the type of plant materials. Contractors should consider this in their designs. You should base these zone needs on the site conditions and plant material needs.
WIND: Wind changes everything. It changes the spray patterns and thus the uniformity of coverage. It also accelerates the evapotranspiration, which causes the soil to dry out more and plants to lose more water. Many areas have the reverse of this problem and have dead air space because of walls and larger shrubs, etc. Consider this aspect of the site when allowing for irrigation programming.
Full automation is far from foolproof. Irrigation needs and cycles should be re-evaluated monthly to locate problems and adjust for changing needs. A properly designed and operated irrigation system will ensure that the critical factor of soil moisture will be there to sustain healthy plant growth.
3. Do a Soil Test Before Fertilizing
Having a soil test done before you fertilize is ideal; you can provide your lawn plants with exactly what they need without over-fertilizing. You can get a soil sample kit from your county Extension office. Proper fertilization is important for the health of your plants as well as the environment as a whole. To minimize environmental risk, be sure you are selecting a fertilizer labeled for urban turf and your specific grass type.
Applying fertilizer at the appropriate time of year is crucial as well. Generally, fertilizer should be applied in the spring, but be sure that you are abiding by local rules and regulations related to fertilizer applications.
Remember, select a fertilizer with low phosphorous—most Florida turfgrasses already have access to ample phosphorus from the soil without needing to apply more. Fertilizers with slow-release nitrogen are ideal. They provide nutrients to plant roots over an extended period of time, preventing nutrients from leaving your landscape and entering waterways, where they contribute to harmful algal blooms and other water quality problems.
4. Scout for W**ds and Evaluate Your Lawn
Early spring is a great time to scout early for w**ds and determine how best you can deal with them. Ultimately, the best way to prevent w**ds is a healthy lawn. Proper fertilization, watering, mowing, and pest control are all necessary parts of growing a healthy turf capable of preventing w**d infestation. Learn more in the UF/IFAS publication, "W**d Management Guide for Florida Lawns."
If you have an area where your lawn has just not been growing well, even with proper care, consider the first principle of Florida-Friendly Landscaping™: Right Plant, Right Place. It's unlikely that every part of your landscape is ideal for turfgrass. Some areas may be too shady or too wet for turf to thrive. Take a moment to consider what conditions in the problematic part of your landscape could be causing turf to suffer, and look for plants that would thrive in those conditions. As always, you can contact your local county Extension office for plant suggestions, as well as any other lawn or landscape questions.
Creating and maintaining a beautiful, lush lawn is challenging, but with proper care the rewards will be worth the effort for year round enjoyment.
REFERENCES:
University of Florida, IFAS Extension, Brent Jeansonne, e-newsletter, Winterize Lawn With Potash, Not Nitrogen, Volusia County Extension
LSU AgCenter, Allen D. Owings, Koske, Thomas J., Sheffield, Ron | 7/13/2005, Tune up Landscape Irrigation, http://www.lsuagcenter.com/topics/lawn_garden/commercial_horticulture/turfgrass/cultural_information/tune-up-landscape-irrigation
University of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611, 2017, Gardening Solutions, Spring into Action for a Healthy Lawn, http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/lawn-care/spring-lawn-care.html
University of Florida, GARDENING IN A MINUTEhttp://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/giam/shows/transcripts/2012/jan/landscaping_value.pdf
Houselogic, 8 Tips for Adding Curb Appeal and Value to Your Home, https://www.houselogic.com/save-money-add-value/add-value-to-your-home/adding-curb-appeal-value-to-home/
Today's high tech irrigation systems demand even more attention so you can receive all their enhanced benefits. Systems must be programmed to fit the location’s needs and those of the current season. Adequate soil moisture is essential for a thriving landscape. It can mean preventing the loss o...
