Accu-Spec Home Inspection Services

12/31/2017

Accu-Spec home Inspections offers competitive rates and experience that is unmatched by most in the industry. Call or text to schedule your inspection.
248-770-1969
Dave Jones
$20 discount for all military, law enforcement, and first responders.

01/17/2017

01/17/2017

You never know what you find on a home inspection. Yesterday I turned on a garbage disposal and heard something clanking around. Reached in and pulled out a 45 cal. Hollow point bullet! It was very scarred, but if the primer was hit it, I am told it could have discharged.!

12/04/2014

They Don’t Build Them like They Used To

“They don’t build them like they used to”. You have often heard this statement before and maybe this is not a bad thing. Here are some things to consider if you are purchasing or if you own a home that is 50 years or older.
The home probably has a block foundation opposed to a poured concrete foundation. Block foundations can become bowed in from hydrostatic pressure. The tar on the outside can break down over the years causing the blocks to fill up with water. The clay drain tiles around the outside will also break down over time. All of these things can lead to the need for waterproofing measures that can be very costly.
The foundation and the exterior walls probably are not insulated allowing a great deal of heat loss. The windows are probably single pane wood or metal and are very inefficient by today’s standards. The attic probably had little or no insulation or ventilation, which could lead to potential mold problems along with heat loss. If there is insulation it is probably a thin layer of vermiculite which contains asbestos. Wood framing members over time can begin to sag causing uneven floors and wall cracks.
The plumbing system probably contains galvanized piping that will build up with rust and cause low pressure. Copper is typically used today. Cast iron drain piping may fill up with tree roots and debris and cause drainage back ups. All drain piping today is P.V.C. Old plumbing fixtures will require updating also the way also.
The electrical system may consist of k**b and tube wiring, which is very outdated. Most of the wiring is not grounded and there were no such things as G.F.I.s. The original fuse box was probably a 60 amp main panel in which the whole house was on 4 circuits!
The heating system may have been a gravity furnace with the ducts wrapped with asbestos insulation or a boiler in which the pipes were wrapped with asbestos. The original systems had efficiency ratings of app. 40%-50% opposed to today’s standards of 80%-95%. Metal chimney liners will also have to be added to accommodate the higher efficient furnace.
The interior walls and ceilings are probably plaster. Over time gravity takes its toll and the plaster will pull away from the wooden lathe causing cracking and sags. These too will probably need future replacement. All interior and exterior paint contains lead and must be properly contained when work is being done. Closet space is also minimal. [Did these people not own any clothes???]
All of these things have to be taken into consideration and updated as needed along the way. Typically with older homes is it already has been done or it needs to be done.
Other old home tid-bits that people may ask about: The small metal box on the side of the home is the milk chute, the metal door on the foundation is the coal chute, and the metal box next to the furnace is the incinerator.

Dave Jones
accu-spec-inspections.com
248-393-1250
[email protected]

11/05/2014

$20 coupon for home inspections is available at www.accu-spec-inspections.com. Accu-spec also provides radon testing, mold testing, asbestos testing, and well water testing. Call 248-393-1250 for pricing.

01/23/2014

Prevent Your Pipes From Freezing

•Disconnect all gardening hoses and install covers on all outside faucets.
•Keep your house temperature at 68 degrees or higher, even if you're leaving the house for an extended period of time.
•Open cabinet doors below sinks to allow heat from the home to circulate.
•Identify the location of the main water valve and the valve on your water heater. (Learning the location of these valves may come in handy during an emergency.)
•Wrap pipes nearest exterior walls and in crawl spaces with pipe insulation or with heating tape. This can prevent freezing, especially for interior pipes that run along outside walls.
•Close all windows near water pipes; cover or close open-air vents. Freezing temperatures combined with wind drafts can cause pipes to freeze more frequently.
•Heat your basement and consider weather sealing your windows.
•Insulate outside walls and unheated areas of your home.
•If you plan to be away from home for an extended period of time, shut off water supply valves to your washing machine.

Monitor Freezing Pipe Conditions

•Allow a faucet to drip slightly (lukewarm water) in order to minimize freezing.
•The first sign of freezing is reduced water flow from a faucet.
•Check your faucets for water flow and pressure before you go to sleep and again when you wake up.
•Check pipes around your water meter, in unheated areas, near exterior walls and in crawl spaces.
•These tend to be vulnerable to freezing conditions.
•Identify cold air drafts coming in from a flue or chimney chase and caulk gaps that are near pipes.

If a Pipe Freezes

•If a faucet or pipe inside your house freezes, you can thaw it using a good hair dryer. (For safety purposes, avoid operating a hair dryer around standing water.)
•To thaw a frozen pipe, heat water on the stove, soak towels in the hot water and wrap them around cold sections of the pipes.
•When thawing a pipe, start thawing it nearest to the faucet. Make sure the faucet is turned on so that melted water can drip out.

If a Pipe Bursts

•Shut off water at the main valve.
•If the break is in a hot water pipe, the valve on top of the water heater should be closed.
•Call a plumber. Keep an emergency number nearby for quick access.

01/21/2014

MOLD.....It's in every house!

Mold is the latest environmental issue to challenge homeowners and buyers. Since every home has some sort of mold in it (old bread left out sort of counts!), the importance should not be overlooked. It is especially important to understand that mold is not only a potential environmental hazard to the occupants ( i.e. health issues: fatigue, headache, flu-like symptoms), but has destructive elements with excessive concentrations per square footage levels leading to the eventual breakdown of anything made of cellulose (i.e. wood, paper wrapped drywall, etc.).
Opportunistic environments for mold to proliferate seen during actual inspections include:
1.) Over insulated houses where fresh air sources are covered.
2.) Attics with gable vents covered over.
3.) Under ventilated homes (Yes, houses are supposed to breathe).
4.) Previous/current water damage in attics, basements, crawlspaces, plumbing.
5.) Clothes dryers vented inside a home.
6.) Under insulated homes (moisture from heat ends up in the attic).
7.) Lack of proper v***r barrier, insulation, or ventilation in crawlspaces.
8.) Interior exhaust fans (usually bathrooms) venting into the attic.
9.) Improper exterior grading. Lack of proper rain gutters and downspouts provide hydrostatic pressure and moisture intrusion into basements over time.
10.) Wet basements/crawlspaces without proper means (sump pump) to extricate the water source.
11.) Wood to ground soil contact.
12.) Lack of proper exhaust venting in bathrooms/laundry areas.
13.) Lack of maintenance of exterior siding, especially North facing exteriors.
14.) Poorly maintained forced hot air/central a/c systems.
Generally, with a lack of ventilation and exposure to moisture, susceptible areas can develop widespread mold within days. It's not just the "toxic" type of black mold (stachybotrys) that needs to be addressed in these situations, but ANY type of mold in excess is not a welcome occupant in any house or workplace. The obvious need to be aware of mold is essential to the "health" of every home or workplace and it's occupants especially if any occupant has a history of asthma or allergies. Once identified and cultured, remediation (ventilation, cleanup, or removal of the affected areas) can be considered.

01/18/2014

Generator Options
February 3, 2011 at 7:14pm

Homeowners may use a generator to supply electricity to their home in the case of a power outage, either out of necessity or convenience. Inspectors may want to know about generators and the potential hazards they present when improperly wired or utilized.

Generator Types

There are two main types of generators: permanently installed, standby generators; and gasoline-powered, portable generators.





Standby Generators



Standby generators typically operate on natural gas or liquid propane. They remain fixed in place outside the home and are designed to supply on-site power to specified circuits through a home's electrical wiring. These generators work in tandem with a manual or automatic transfer switch, which automatically detects an interruption in grid-powered electricity and subsequently transfers over electrical input to the generator. The transfer switch suspends input from the generator once it senses that utility-powered electricity has resumed. Generators for small- to medium-size homes are typically air-cooled and employ fans to regulate the temperature inside the unit. Liquid-cooled units are used for the larger energy loads in larger homes.



Some advantages of standby generators are as follows:
◾They may be turned on manually, or they may be programmed to switch on automatically in the case of a power outage even when no one is home.
◾Power may be supplied for extended periods of time.
◾Hard-wired systems, such as a home's furnace, well pump and air conditioner, may maintain continuous power.
◾Uninterrupted power can be supplied to systems that must remain on continuously, such as medical equipment used for breathing, etc.

Disadvantages of standby generators are as follows:
◾Installation may require a permit.
◾A qualified technician, such as an electrician, is required to install the ATS and to determine the electrical load requirements for the circuits in a home.
◾Routine maintenance is required.
◾Standby generators may be prohibitively expensive.



Portable Generators



Gasoline-powered, portable generators are typically smaller in size and power capacity than permanently installed generators. They are designed so that corded electrical devices may be plugged directly into them.



Advantages to portable generators are as follows:
◾Portable generators are versatile. They may be used at home or transported and utilized in remote locations, such as a campground or a construction site.
◾They do not require complicated installation.
◾They typically do not require permits.

◾Portable units are generally less expensive than standby generators.

Disadvantages of portable generators:
◾Devices that are hard-wired into a home's electrical system cannot be powered by a portable generator if no transfer switch is installed.

Hazards
◾Portable and standby generators produce dangerous carbon monoxide (CO) gas, which can be deadly if inhaled.
◾Inexperienced installers are exposed to the risk of electrical shock. Only qualified electricians should attempt to install a generator.
◾Overloading a generator may result in reduced fuel efficiency, damage to appliances or fire.
◾Standby generators or their required transfer switches that are incorrectly wired (or missing) may result in "back-feed" -- a hazardous condition in which an electrical current is fed back into the grid -- which could potentially electrocute and kill homeowners, utility workers, and others who are using the same utility transformer.
◾Connecting a portable generator directly into a home's wall outlet can also cause dangerous back-feed.
◾Generators that are exposed to water or that are not properly grounded can cause electrocution.
◾Gasoline for portable generators is highly flammable and may cause a fire when exposed to an open flame or when spilled on the hot generator.
◾Over-taxed cords attached to a portable generator may cause a fire.

01/15/2014

They Don’t Build Them like They Used To

“They don’t build them like they used to”. You have often heard this statement before and maybe this is not a bad thing. Here are some things to consider if you are purchasing or if you own a home that is 50 years or older.
The home probably has a block foundation opposed to a poured concrete foundation. Block foundations can become bowed in from hydrostatic pressure. The tar on the outside can break down over the years causing the blocks to fill up with water. The clay drain tiles around the outside will also break down over time. All of these things can lead to the need for waterproofing measures that can be very costly.
The foundation and the exterior walls probably are not insulated allowing a great deal of heat loss. The windows are probably single pane wood or metal and are very inefficient by today’s standards. The attic probably had little or no insulation or ventilation, which could lead to potential mold problems along with heat loss. If there is insulation it is probably a thin layer of vermiculite which contains asbestos. Wood framing members over time can begin to sag causing uneven floors and wall cracks.
The plumbing system probably contains galvanized piping that will build up with rust and cause low pressure. Copper is typically used today. Cast iron drain piping may fill up with tree roots and debris and cause drainage back ups. All drain piping today is P.V.C. Old plumbing fixtures will require updating also the way also.
The electrical system may consist of k**b and tube wiring, which is very outdated. Most of the wiring is not grounded and there were no such things as G.F.I.s. The original fuse box was probably a 60 amp main panel in which the whole house was on 4 circuits!
The heating system may have been a gravity furnace with the ducts wrapped with asbestos insulation or a boiler in which the pipes were wrapped with asbestos. The original systems had efficiency ratings of app. 40%-50% opposed to today’s standards of 80%-95%. Metal chimney liners will also have to be added to accommodate the higher efficient furnace.
The interior walls and ceilings are probably plaster. Over time gravity takes its toll and the plaster will pull away from the wooden lathe causing cracking and sags. These too will probably need future replacement. All interior and exterior paint contains lead and must be properly contained when work is being done. Closet space is also minimal. [Did these people not own any clothes???]
All of these things have to be taken into consideration and updated as needed along the way. Typically with older homes is it already has been done or it needs to be done.
Other old home tid-bits that people may ask about: The small metal box on the side of the home is the milk chute, the metal door on the foundation is the coal chute, and the metal box next to the furnace is the incinerator.

Dave Jones
accu-spec-inspections.com
248-393-1250
[email protected]

09/22/2013

Can you find the mouse? Not a good place to hide!

09/22/2013

Time for a new roof!