I Buy Notes Now

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I Buy Notes Now I buy seller-financed mortgage notes. Message me, I'll walk you through the process.

If you sold a property and still collect the payments, you can sell the whole note, sell just part of it, or borrow against it without selling. Welcome to I Buy Notes Now, where we specialize in the direct buying of performing and non-performing loans. Our company has the unique capabilities to purchase a range of note sizes, from single notes to large pools, in both the commercial and residential sectors. With each deal underwritten on its own merits, our purchasing power ranges from $20,000 to $250,000,000 or more.

09/30/2026

Quick one for anyone who carried the financing when they sold a place.

If your note has a balloon coming due in the next 18 months, start now.

Not the month before. Now.

Call the payer and ask what their plan is. You'll get one of three answers, and each one gives you time to do something about it.

They plan to refinance. Then the question is whether they can. Credit, income, and what the property will appraise for. If any of those look shaky, you know 18 months early instead of 30 days early.

They plan to sell. Fine, but that's a market question, and you want to know now whether the property will actually clear your balance.

They have no plan. Which is the most common answer, and the most useful one to get early.

Your own options are better while the note is still performing and the balloon is still in the future. You can sell it, sell a block of payments, or borrow against it. All of that gets harder the day the balloon is late.

Comment "send it" and I'll send you the one-pager.

09/27/2026

For the folks who sold a property and became the lender on it:

If you've been thinking about doing something with your note, the three questions that decide it.

What's the money for? If there's no specific use, holding a performing note is fine and you shouldn't pay a discount to convert it. If there is a use, the discount is the price of doing that thing now.

How much do you need? If it's a piece rather than all of it, a partial almost certainly prices better than selling the whole note, because the buyer carries less duration.

Do you want to stay in it? If you like the income and just need cash, borrowing against the note keeps you in it. If you're tired of being the bank, selling ends it.

Those three answers point at one of the three options almost every time. The number comes after, and it comes from your actual documents.

Comment "send it" and I'll send you the one-pager.

09/23/2026

If you carried paper on a property you sold, this is worth two minutes.

Your payer calls and says they're refinancing. They want a payoff figure by Friday.

Here's what to have ready, because this is where holders lose money without noticing.

The exact principal balance as of the payoff date, not the balance from your last statement.

Interest accrued from the last payment through the payoff date, calculated the way your note actually says. Check whether it's 365 or 360 day basis. Sellers get this wrong constantly and it's real money on a large balance.

Any late fees or advances you made, for taxes or forced-place insurance, that the note allows you to recover.

A per diem, so the figure stays good if they close a few days late.

And know what you're required to deliver at payoff: the original note marked paid, and a recorded satisfaction or release. If you can't find the original note, deal with that now rather than the day of closing.

An early payoff is usually good news. It's also the moment sloppy records cost you.

Comment "send it" and I'll send the one-pager.

09/22/2026

One note. One borrower. One property. One market.

If you hold a single seller-financed note, that's your entire position. There is no diversification in it at all.

A bank holding 400 mortgages expects some of them to default. It's priced in. When one goes bad, the other 399 carry the portfolio.

You don't have 399. You have one. If your payer stops paying, 100% of that income stops, and the recovery depends on a single property in a single county.

That isn't a reason to panic. Plenty of single notes perform beautifully for their full term. It's a reason to underwrite it every year rather than once at closing, and to know that "it's been fine for 3 years" is evidence about the past.

It's also the strongest argument for a partial. Sell a block of payments, take some risk off the table, keep the back end.

Comment "send it" and I'll send you the one-pager.

09/17/2026

A pattern I see over and over.

Somebody sells a house in Florida, carries the financing, and then moves. Different state, sometimes a different country. The payments still come in, so it works fine.

Until it doesn't.

Now there's a property you haven't seen in 6 years, a payer you've never met in person because the sale closed remotely, and a tax and insurance situation you have no visibility into. If something goes wrong, you're managing a legal process in a county you'd have to fly to.

Distance is fine while everybody performs. It gets expensive the moment they don't.

If you're holding paper on a property in a place you no longer live, that's worth thinking about before there's a problem rather than after. Selling it, selling part of it, or borrowing against it are all easier decisions when the note is still performing.

Comment "send it" and I'll send you the one-pager.

09/14/2026

If you're holding a note you no longer want, the hardest part isn't the decision. It's the paperwork you can't find.

Before you do anything, go find these.

The original promissory note, ideally the wet-ink original rather than a copy.

The recorded mortgage or deed of trust, with the recording stamp on it.

The title policy from the closing, if one was issued.

A payment history. Anything showing what was paid and when. A bank statement history works if that's all you have.

The current payoff balance and the amortization schedule you've been working from.

Every buyer is going to ask for these, and the file that has them prices better and closes faster than the file that doesn't. Missing documents are the single most common reason a note deal takes 30 days instead of 10.

Comment "send it" and I'll send you the one-pager.

09/10/2026

The option most note holders have never heard of.

You don't have to choose between keeping all of it and selling all of it.

You can sell a defined block of the upcoming payments. The next 24, the next 36, whatever the math supports. You take that cash now, and everything behind those payments stays yours. When the buyer has collected the block they bought, the note comes back to you and you keep collecting.

Two reasons this beats a full sale for a lot of people.

The discount is smaller. A buyer taking 36 payments carries less time-value risk than a buyer taking 14 years, so they don't need to discount as hard.

And you keep the back end. If the payer pays the note off early, the way the split works can leave you better off than if you'd sold the whole thing up front.

It fits the person who needs a specific amount of money for a specific reason, rather than everything at once.

Comment "send it" and I'll send you the one-pager.

09/06/2026

A question worth asking yourself if you hold a note.

If you had the cash today instead of the payment stream, what would you do with it?

If the honest answer is "put it in the bank," then keep the note. A performing note at a decent rate beats a savings account, and there's no reason to pay a discount to convert something you don't have a use for.

If the answer is a specific thing, a property you'd buy, debt you'd retire, a business you'd fund, tuition that's coming, then the discount is just the price of doing that thing now instead of in 12 years.

That's the whole decision. Not whether the offer is "fair." Whether the money is worth more to you today than the payments are worth over time.

Most people never frame it that way, and they stay stuck arguing about the discount.

Comment "send it" and I'll send you the one-pager.

09/02/2026

This is for anyone who sold real estate and agreed to take payments over time.

How I actually price a note, since most buyers won't tell you.

I start with the remaining payments, not the balance. Every payment left on the schedule you wrote, including any balloon. Then I discount that stream to a yield. Higher risk means a higher required yield, and a higher yield means a lower price. That's the whole mechanism. It isn't personal and it isn't a negotiating tactic.

Two real examples of what that produces.

A performing note in Palestine, Texas: $30,000 owed at 10%, payer had never missed. I paid $22,000, about 73 cents on the dollar.

A non-performing note where the payer had stopped: $445,000 owed, real estate worth around $540,000. I paid $209,000, about 47 cents on the balance and about 39 cents on the property value.

Notice what changed between those two. On the performing note I was buying payments, so I priced the payments. On the non-performing note the payments were a question mark, so I priced the real estate and underwrote a foreclosure I hoped I'd never have to run. As it happened, the payer sold the property about 14 months later.

Which is why the single most valuable thing in your file is a payer who is current.

I'll walk you through the math on yours before you commit to anything. Comment "send it" and I'll send the one-pager first.

08/31/2026

old a property and still collecting the payments on it? Read this one.

Somebody asked me last week what actually makes a note worth more.

Fair question, and the answer is more specific than people expect.

Payment history. A note with 36 months of on-time payments prices better than the same note with 6 months, because the payer has proven something.

The rate. A note written at 9% is worth more than the same note at 5%, because the buyer's return is closer to what they need before any discount.

Equity. How much the payer has in the deal, which is what keeps them paying when things get hard.

Clean documents. A recorded mortgage, a properly endorsed note, a legal description that matches, and a title policy. Diligence problems cost more than any other single factor.

Those four move the number more than anything else. Not the balance, and not how much you think the house is worth.

Comment "send it" and I'll send you the one-pager.

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9429 Harding Avenue, Suite 301
Surfside, FL
33154

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