30/04/2024
"West Somerset, Cape of Good Hope, "July 16th, 1859. โ Edward Hawkins
"MY DEAR M- ,
Your letter, the only one I have received from home, has just found me at Somerset - a very beautiful village, situated at the foot of a range of mountains about thirty miles from Cape Town.
I am staying here with the Whites, and we propose to go on in a day or two to Stellenbosch and Paarl, making a tour of some hundred miles through the most striking scenery round Cape Town; so I have an unexpected opportunity of seeing something of the country before we begin our work at the college.
I think I mentioned my good fortune in coming in holiday time; it proved most convenient, as the first fortnight was completely taken up in settling my emigrants and myself in a new land. Some of them, I fear, were terribly disappointed. Wages are low, and provisions high; but there seems to be work enough.
For myself, I am quite delighted with all I find, Our own home at Woodlands is prettily situated, and much of the surrounding country extremely picturesque; the mountains are always varying, and across the flats we see this other range of the boldest possible outline.
These flats - a great feature in South African views -are very far from being really flat; but, like the heaths about Tonbridge Wells, perhaps, only on a grander scale, and cut up everywhere by streams, often of quite a mountain character. This is the depth of winter, but flowers are abundant; chiefly heaths and proteas, with little geraniums creeping about in the dust, and looking half-choked and very unhappy. However, up here, in a mountain scramble a day or two ago, near what is called Sir Lowry's Pass, we found very fine geraniums, as well as more than twenty other varieties, some of them extremely curious.
Our journey here was rather strange. We came on the top of an omnibus drawn by six horses, and piloted by two men-one a black to hold the reins, the other to flourish a bamboo fifteen feet long, with a twenty[1]feet lash tied to one end. This is the usual way here with the addition, in the case of ox-wagons, of a boy to guide the leaders. Generally, ten or twelve oxen go in a team six seems the average for horses, and eight for mules, which are very common.
All along the road are out-spanning places, where the up-country wagons stop while the cattle graze. 26 We passed one the other day with the rare luxury of tents ; outside they had lighted a fire, round which were sitting some young ladies in round hats, evidently intending to pass the night there, for it was late when we saw them.
But, on the whole, the colony would look very English were it not for seeing vultures, secretary-birds, heaps of chattering children, and other strange animals about, and occasionally the skeleton of an ox by the roadside. You should have seen the place where the ox-wagons had to pass the first range of mountains in former days; it is about as steep and rough as Rossit Ghyll; the tracks of the wheels are worn more than a foot deep in the rocks.โ
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